WeFuse

WeFuse

By Eric Pulsifer Friday, 14 August 2009

Japanese cuisine may be synonymous with sushi to the hungry masses, but WeFuse is a far cry from downtown’s ubiquitous sushi bars. In fact, sushi is not even an option at the trendy Frost Bank Tower eatery. The focus instead is on fresh and healthy dishes born out of a playful fusion of French and Japanese food.

Don’t let the fusion label turn you away with visions of hoity-toity dining and microscopic portions. WeFuse proves that modern dining does not have to be pretentious or pricey.

The atmosphere at WeFuse is as casual and contemporary as the cuisine. Cutesy indie rock plays from owner and chef Jon Gaboric’s iPod in the open kitchen. Wooden white tables topped solely with soy sauce sit on a white tile floor. Photographs and paintings by featured local artists adorn soothing green walls—the works on display are changed out regularly and WeFuse doesn’t take a cut of the sales. Sunlight pours in through tall windows, giving the dining room an urban vibe and lending diners at the bar a view of passing pedestrians and the southern sky. One step inside, WeFuse feels hip but inviting.

Gaboric seems to understand the beauty of keeping things simple, and, like his restaurant’s minimal interior, the food at WeFuse is remarkable because of its simplicity. Most sides include little more than two or three ingredients, a plus for anyone concerned about what goes into their food.

WeFuse’s most popular menu item is also the best bet for first timers: bento box-style trays with steamed rice, veggie dumplings, a choice of roasted salmon, seared tuna, chicken breast or tofu and two sides ($8-$9). Bento trays may be coupled with a warm bowl of miso soup and a glass of iced tea ($10). Trays are paired with suggested side items, but regulars often mix and match, an unplanned twist that Gaboric said makes the menu more flexible.

These straightforward sides are where WeFuse really shines. Succulent roasted tomatoes are liberally sprinkled with creamy crumbles of goat cheese; crisp yellow pepper and leeks are topped with sesame seeds and green onion to make a sweet salad with mild heat; an avocado is halved, sliced and served plain, save for a delightful drizzle of oil and a pinch of sea salt and black pepper.

A hidden gem on the menu is the chilled soba ($5.50)—cool, thin spaghetti-like Japanese noodles made with buckwheat flour served with a sprout salad, ginger carrots and a lemon soy dipping sauce.

For lovers of all things leafy, WeFuse also has a delicious variety of salads, including the pear, walnut and blue cheese salad ($6.50) and the roasted salmon, potatoes and grilled asparagus salad ($7.50).

WeFuse does not have a dessert menu, yet dessert is one of the most memorable things about the experience. As patrons finish their meal, they are offered a complimentary piece of chocolate-covered fruit. The fruit changes daily, a pleasant surprise for regulars, and can be anything from pineapple to pomegranate.

Gaboric’s elegant creations are unique and fresh and served at what he calls “fast-food speed.” True to his claim, my food was out in minutes, even during the bustle of lunch hour, proving the perfect stop for downtown diners in a rush.

For the most current information on specials and seasonal menu items, follow WeFuse on Twitter at www.twitter.com/wefuse

WeFuse, Frost Bank Tower, 120 E. Fourth St., 236-1011, www.wefuse.net

• Mon.-Fri. 11 a.m.-4 p.m.