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Kenobi

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By Rob Heidrick Friday, 26 June 2009

Bounded by a red gate and tall brick columns, Kenobi’s central courtyard reflects the restaurant’s sophisticated atmosphere and culinary sensibilities. Lofty stalks of bamboo shade the small outdoor seating area, creating a calming buffer between the restaurant and the summertime shoppers winding through the Arboretum parking lot.

Lunch bentos with Firecracker Chicken ($11) includes vegetable tempura, rice and soup; Seven and a Half roll ($14). Photo by Tiffany Young

The sushi bar is in the heart of the building, so diners en route to one of Kenobi’s high-backed booths or intimate tables can preview the day’s selection of fresh seafood cuts. The dining area is dimly lit by a row of garlic-shaped lanterns dangling over each table from vine-like metal stems.

The Japanese restaurant and sushi bar opened in early 2008 and has cultivated its reputation as an understated but trendy dining hotspot ever since.

Lobster gyoza dumplings ($8), the menu’s standout appetizer, arrived with crispy wrappings still piping hot, and the warm filling of lobster, shrimp and goat cheese nicely complemented the heat and crunch of the first bite.

Sauce is too often an afterthought with dumpling dishes, but not so at Kenobi: Made from eel broth, soy sauce, sake and sweet red wine, the unagi sauce that accompanied the gyoza dumplings was complex and moderately thick, with a touch of vinegar flavor.

Kenobi’s main appeal is its sushi, and the Seven and a Half roll ($14) is a highly recommended selection. The crispy, tempura-battered outer wrap encloses a core of sticky rice, tiny beads of masago and a fresh assortment of yellowfin tuna, salmon and yellowtail. To round out the roll’s intricate preparation, lines of jalapeño mayo and pepper sauce cross the top of each piece in a zigzag pattern. The result is a unique blend of textures that even the most seasoned sushi connoisseur could appreciate.

The Firecracker Chicken ($11), colorfully presented with red and green bell peppers, has less of a kick than its name implies, as its chili paste glaze evokes more smoke than fire. The peppery exterior was a flavorful counterpoint to the cut of juicy white meat. The lunch bento plate came with vegetable tempura and a bowl of chicken orzo miso soup, the latter of which proved a novel update to the traditional pre-meal staple.

A slice of tempura cheesecake from the daily dessert menu sounded too intriguing to pass up. Unlike the crisp batter that coated the sushi roll and the vegetable tempura, this tempura was somehow much softer, dually absorbing the caramel drizzle on top and the rich cheesecake ($7) below. The slice is served warm, surrounded by raspberries, strawberries and blackberries — perhaps the ideal dessert to cap off a meal of unique offerings.