European Bistro • Pflugerville

European Bistro • Pflugerville

Written by Habeab Kurdi Thursday, 03 July 2008

Editor’s note: Community Impact has reviewed a local restaurant in each issue since our inception in September 2005. We will occasionally revisit some of the first restaurants for those who may be new to the community or missed an early issue. We first reviewed European Bistro in the November 2005 issue.

Tugging old-world soul food across the ocean, European Bistro is brimming full of ways to fill the five senses.

Intent on replanting the sturdy German roots from which Pflugerville was founded, the family-run eatery continues to provide a rare gateway into the city’s past.

“People will understand when they come in here, European food is a comfort food,” owner Anni Zovek said. “We are the only European restaurant that has Pflugerville heritage. When they first came to America, that’s what Pflugers [German immigrants who established Pflugerville] ate — what we have here.”

In its sixth year on historic Main Street, the bistro features vivid paintings on the walls. The brick is painted red to match the décor. Zovek’s welcoming touch on the shoulder and warm greeting instantly create a “Wilkommen,” or welcoming, atmosphere.

On our visit last month, the dining room was filling up for Friday lunch. Even Pflugerville Mayor Jeff Coleman dropped in for a meal.

The highly recommended potato dumplings ($6) coated with creamy hunter sauce (pureed cream and vegetables) had a soft texture, yet a hearty taste. They provided a perfect complement to any meat entrée such as the variety of schnitzels (pork, chicken, veal, ham) and the aromatic Turkey Breast Cordon Bleu ($22).

“Everything has to be so authentic,” Zovek said. “It takes longer because the food cannot sit in a heating oven. It has to go straight from the pan and straight to the table. We cook the way people used to cook a long time ago — nothing frozen.”

Though spacious, the two-story restaurant provides an intimate feel throughout. It’s no small feat, but Zovek and her sister, Executive Chef Piroska Althauser, have been in the food industry for more than two decades.

Their great grandmother regularly cooked meals for the Bishop of Slovakia, and Althauser has worked as a chef all over Europe. Althauser prepares most of their meals from scratch, such as the sweet or savory crepes ($6 for 2) and lamb or beef pirogues ($7). Handmade breadcrumbs lightly crust the slow-cooked veal Jagerschnitzel ($18), which was a tender, juicy table favorite.

Despite boasting a diverse menu, the bistro bakes an array of pastries every day for anyone who wishes to stop in for a small bite and a cup of coffee or tea.

Also on the lighter side, the Borscht Soup ($5.50) paired nicely with the Salad Sampler ($10), which combines Albanian, Russian Beet, Hungarian Cucumber and traditional American tossed salads. Save room for authentic gooey German chocolate cake ($6) and relax with pianist Donald Hill on Friday and Saturday nights or accordionist Shirley Johnson on Sundays.

European glossary

Drawing on influences from Texas and abroad, European Bistro highlights delicacies for an evening out, a family feast or just a mellow afternoon.

Germany – Schnitzel (shnit-suhl) - Schnitzel is the German word for “breaded,” originating with chicken fried veal, but now includes many lightly breaded meats.

Czech Republic – Pirogues (pi-roh-gees) and Kolaches (koh-lah-chees) - Pirogues are handmade pasta served as a dumpling-style dish stuffed with ground meat. Kolaches are rolls filled with fruit, cheese or meat.

Hungary – Gulyás (goo-lahsh) - A substantial soup filled with crisp vegetables and fresh meat, much like a chili, stew or gumbo.

France – Crepes (kr?ps) - A versatile dish that starts with silky batter spread into a thin layer like a pancake, then filled with cheese, fruit, vegetables and/or meat.

European Bistro, 111 E. Main St. • 835-1919